Boragó (Santiago, Chile)
An edible “twig” is one of the many whimsical dishes on the tasting menu at Boragó in Santiago.| Credit: Claudio Vera
Boragó, nestled into the foot of Santiago, Chile’s highest mountain, is almost a parody of a high-concept restaurant. The room is huge and modern, with glass walls looking out towards the peak; the glassed-in kitchen is full of serious workers brandishing tweezers, the drinking water is Chile’s finest rainwater; and the waiters present each precious plate with hushed veneration. And yet, from the first reverently placed dish—perhaps a sweet-tart edible twig dotted with brilliant pink flowers—you’ll realize that this restaurant is way more joyous than it lets on. Chef Rodolfo Guzmán is very focused on the ingredients of Chile and the work of Chilean foragers, and the result is a 16-or-so-course meal that touches on every color and flavor and emotion you could hope to experience in a single evening. Dishes materialize as flowers or spheres, or inside of hollowed-out pumpkins. A ceviche of palometa, a firm, buttery type of amberjack, comes layered with a spackle of violet petals; a mouthful of cool floral pleasure. In other words, Boragó is, above all else, serious fun. borago.cl
“I would honestly just like to go and see my amazing friend Mauro Colagreco at his restaurant Mirazur, in beautiful Menton [France], and have an aperitivo on the charming mediterranean, then climb up to the restaurant and hug Mauro and Julia and indulge in the beauty of his food. This would be really crazy and amazing.
– ANA ROŠ, HIŠA FRANKO, KOBARID, SLOVENIA
