Lasai (Rio de Janeiro, Brazil)
Chef Rafael Costa e Silva uses produce from his own garden to create vibrant vegetable dishes.| Credit: Courtesy of Lasai
It would be easy to tell you that chef Rafael Costa e Silva uses only ingredients from Rio de Janeiro state for his multi-course tasting menus at Lasai, and that many of those ingredients come from the chef’s own gardens. I could wax poetic about the airy modern feel of the town-house dining room and the vaguely Basque inspiration for the cooking. But none of those descriptions really do justice to the feel of this place, its subtle, delicious exuberance. There’s a studied vibrancy to everything that hits the table at Lasai, from the brightly flavored fruit-based cocktails to the elegant, architecturally plated dishes served throughout the evening to the diverse and thoughtfully chosen wine pairings. Mini empanadas, their casing dyed magenta and tasting of sweet beets, are stuffed with a luscious cashew filling; local fish is paired with hearts of palm and creamy coconut. Dishes arrive in a colorful whirlwind and leave you giddy. Costa e Silva is a master at contrasts, of hue and flavor and texture—everything tastes bright and vital. Eating there makes you feel bright and vital. What more could you want? lasai.com.br
